Makeup 101

Introduction to Stage Makeup

Designing or applying stage makeup for the first time can be an overwhelming process. Below, our top experts will highlight several key principles of makeup design and application. Then, they will explain basic designs for male and female characters. These designs will provide an introduction for new designers, and they will also allow actors to have step-by-step instructions at their fingertips to practice and apply stage makeup independently.

A Note to Designers

Productions can span anywhere from a few to a few hundred performers. Thus, it can be daunting to tackle both the design and application phases of productions. In this section, Harper Theatrical's top designers have compiled several basic principles and outlines to kickstart your design process. Information on compelx designs, products, and running makeup crews can be found on other sections of this site.

A key point to remember throughout the design process is that things will go wrong, things will need to change, and things will potentially change in unanticipated ways. This is okay and expected. The hallmark of a great designer is someone who can navigate change and counteract problems. Step one is to have the inner confidence to tackle these situations as they arise.

Also consider that, wherever you are in your theatrical journey, your designs may be the first that many actors learn to apply. Questions and confusion are probable. That's okay! Remember that everyone's knowledge base is different, and you may need to spend some extra time helping people learn the basics. While this site can be used by performers as a guide for theatrical hair and makeup application, it does not eliminate the benefits in application and communication that can be reached through face-to-face interactions with the performers. Learning what your performers' skillsets are, what their unique needs are, and what alterations may be necessary to make them comfortable are all vital actions to create a visually and functionally flawless production.

A Note to Performers

After memorizing lines, blocking, coreography, and, potentially, songs, hair and makeup can sometimes feel like the last intimidating hurdle before the performances begin. We hope that the information on this page will alleviate some of the nervousness, answer some of the most common questions you may have, and facilitate a better relationship between performers and their potential hair and makeup designers. Please note that, while the information on this page is relatively standard, it is always important to communicate with your hair and makeup designer(s) to understand exactly what they are intending to convey with your hair and makeup look(s). Different companies have different standards for hair and makeup application, so the information you obtain here should always be taken in the context of your company's designs and policies.

The Basic Principles of Makeup Application

How much makeup should I apply?

When most students are faced with the daunting task of applying stage makeup for the first time, they base their application on what they already know about day-to-day makeup. Unfortunately, this is very misleading. Day-to-day makeup is intended to appear aesthetically pleasing under normal lighting conditions. It is also intended to look nice to people a few feet to a few yards away from the wearer. Highlighting, contouring, and even blush and eyeshadow do not have to be particularly bold or harsh to be visible or interesting.

Stage makeup, on the other hand, is much different. Stage lights are bright; they easily wash actors' faces out. This is especially true of spotlights, which can present challenges for performers in leading roles. Additionally, the audience is typically much farther away. Those intended to see the makeup clearly are a minimum of several yards away. So, while we do not need to apply makeup that will appeal to the nosebleed section, we should aim to apply enough makeup to be visible and engaging to everyone from the front row to the middle of the house.

What does all this mean for makeup application? Simply, that it's okay to cake it on! In fact, you should apply enough makeup that you look a little silly up-close! If you look normal in the dressing room mirror, you are probably not wearing enough makeup. Keep this in mind as you apply makeup because it is typically the number one mistake that occurs with theatrical hair and makeup.

What kind of makeup should I apply?

There are many different types of makeup products that are used in theatrical productions. For a basic face of stage makeup, creme paint is typically the best way to go. This paint is thick, blendable, and comes in a variety of colors. Whether you are intended to have a normal skin tone or be painted blue, creme paint is an excellent way to ensure you have strong, easily visible coverage. Ben Nye sells personal creme paint kits for performers who would like to obtain their own supplies. It comes with creme foundation, highlight, contour, blush, lipstick, powder, a poweder puff, eyeliner, and a makeup sponge. The shades from these kits can also be purchased in bulk by makeup designers. Creme foundation, highlight, and contour are recommended because they have a much thicker consistency than normal makeup. They will stand out more on the performer's skin, and they will weather the heat and rigor of productions with ease.

However, it is important to remember that creme products do not dry down like normal liquid foundations. They need powder to set. Unless a different powder is needed as an element of the makeup design, we typically recommend that performers use translucent powder because it can be heavily utilized on the creme paint without lightening the makeup in a way that will conflict with bright stage lights.

Lipstick, eyeliner, mascara, eyeshadow, and a creme or liquid lipstick are typically also recommended. The colors and styles of these components are dependent upon the makeup designs in question.

What if I sweat a lot?

Never fear! There are ways to tackle sweaty and oily skin! Begin by washing your face before applying any makeup. We want to reduce the oils already on your skin as much as possible. Then, Apply a makeup primer. If you do not have a makeup primer and one is not readily available to you, a light layer of hairspray over the face can do in a pinch. Next, apply your makeup. Remember, layer it on thick! Then, you want to use your translucent powder. There are two keys to successfully applying powder. First, apply a lot of powder all over the paint. Second, press it into the skin. This will help remove any moisture from the creme paint, so it will stay dry as long as possible. If you feel the sweat start flowing, remember you can always come back and powder more. If you're feeling particularly nervous about your sweat levels, you can optionally seal everything in with a setting spray or hairspray.

If you are going to have unique makeup for the production, remember that water activated makeup should not be used on sweaty individuals. As soon as you sweat, the makeup will run everywhere! If you or your designer are concerned about concerned about your sweat levels, consider sticking with creme paint or alcohol activated paint rather than water activated paint.

What if I do not like the designs the makeup artist has given me to follow?

This is a tricky situation to navigate, and it is best approached delicately. Designers typically have a multitude of reasons for choosing their particular designs, so try to approach your designer honestly, kindly, and without hostility. Your vision for your character is important, and it is worth speaking to the designer in order to find a middle ground. This might not always be possible given the constraints of the production, but it is worth voicing your concerns. It may be helpful to approach the designer with specific issues and alternative plans. However, there are circumstances in which your alternative plans may not be the final designs your designer chooses.

Regardless your plans or not, it is much better to speak with a designer than to alter or avoid the designer's designs without communicating with them. When you walk out on the stage, your hair and makeup are the visualizations of the designer's craft. Just as actors are evaluated for their performances, makeup designers are evaluated on their actors' appearances. Going against a designer's designs without speaking to them about it will likely result in unnecessary tensions between you and the designer. In ignoring them, you demonstrate a lack of respect in their work and actively sabotage their portfolio.

Remember to always speak with the design crew if you're having issues. Whether it is due to the makeup application, issues with quick changes, or you're having trouble with the overall look of a character. It is better to discuss these issues as they arise so they can be rectified quickly and thoroughly. Communication is key!

What if I, the makeup designer, am not sure what the designs should be?

This question is answered more in-depth in the Preproduction Prep section of this site. However, to give you a few suggestions, talk to your performers! While rehearsing, performers typically develop a strong understanding and visualization of their character(s). If you're struggling to develop a concrete design, consider asking them for their opinions. Also consider how the lighting, set, hair, and costume designs may alter your existing ideas for the makeup. We may envision a character with partiuclar color designs; however, the actor's appearance on stage must be considered overall. There are times where the rest of the appearance will contradict your vision (and potentially the perfomer's vision, as well), so be prepared to make alterations as necessary!

Basic Stage Makeup for Men

These instructions are for individuals in a masculine role seeking a basic tutorial on normal, nonspecific character makeup. You will need: creme foundation, highlight, and contour for your skin tone, translucent powder, a powder puff, a wedge sponge, and an eyeliner pencil (black or brown). Mascara and a natural lipstick color are optional.

Instructions

A male face with highlight and contour lines on the cheeks, nose, and chin.

Use a wedge sponge to apply an even layer of foundation across your entire face. This includes the eyelids, ears, and neck.
On a clean portion of the sponge, use the lightest color (the highlight) to create streaks on your cheekbones, chin, the bridge of your nose, and the center of your forehead just below the hairline. The lines should be somewhat thick.
Blend the highlights in slightly. Dab the sponge against the skin to blend the highlight into the foundation. Do not rub.
On a clean corner of the makeup sponge, use the darkest color (the contour) to place lines in the hollows of the cheeks (directly below the cheekbones), on the sides of the nose, under the jaw, in the crease between the chin and the lip, and on the cupid's bow (the central divot between the nose and lips). Start with a light amount of product and work your way up until the lines are to the desired darkness.
Blend the contour color into the foundation. In many of these areas, the highlight and contour are directly beside one another on the face. Do not blend them into one another. We want those contrasts!
Now is the time to apply creme lipstick if one is choosing to do so. Apply it with a brush along the lips in an even layer.
Using a powder puff, press translucent powder all over the face, neck, and ears. Don't forget your eyelids and lips! Dust off excess with the used powder puff once completed.
Take your eyeliner pencil and gently brush along the upper and lower lashlines. Attempt to get the color as close to your eyelashes as possible. The lines should not be very large.
If you are choosing to use mascara, apply it now! Carefully coat your upper eyelashes. If you are a heavy sweater, I highly recommend using a water-resistant mascara. It may also help to brace your arm against a table or counter during this step.
You have now successfully completed applying a face of stage makeup! Congradulations!

Basic Stage Makeup for Women

These instructions are for individuals in a feminine role seeking a basic tutorial on normal, nonspecific character makeup. You will need: creme foundation, highlight, and contour for your skin tone, translucent powder, a powder puff, a wedge sponge, an eyeliner pencil (black or brown), mascara, natural lipstick (creme or liquid), and an optional creme or powder blush.

A female face with highlight, contour, blush, and lipstick drawn on.

Instructions

Use a wedge sponge to apply an even layer of foundation across your entire face. This includes the eyelids, ears, and neck.
On a clean portion of the sponge, use the lightest color (the highlight) to create streaks on your cheekbones, chin, and the bridge of your nose. The lines should be somewhat thick.
Blend the highlights in slightly. Dab the sponge against the skin to blend the highlight into the foundation. Do not rub.
On a clean corner of the makeup sponge, use the darkest color (the contour) to place lines in the hollows of the cheeks (directly below the cheekbones), on the sides of the nose, under the jaw, in the temples, on the eyelids, and on the cupid's bow (the central divot between the nose and lips). Start with a light amount of product and work your way up until the lines are to the desired darkness. The eyelid contour should be relatively lighter than the rest.
Blend the contour color into the foundation. In many of these areas, the highlight and contour are directly beside one another on the face. Do not blend them into one another. We want those contrasts!
If you are using creme blush and lipstick, apply them now. Blush should go on the apples of the cheeks for rounder face shapes and the cheekbones for narrower face shapes. Speak to your designer if you are unsure where to apply your blush. Blend the blush into your cheeks.
Using a powder puff, press translucent powder all over the face, neck, and ears. Don't forget your eyelids and lips! Dust off excess with the used powder puff once completed.
If you are using powder blush, apply it to the cheeks now. See step 6 for more instructions.
If you are using liquid lipstick, apply it now.
Apply your eyeliner along the upper and lower lashlines. Attempt to get the color as close to your eyelashes as possible. The lines should not be very large, but should be distinct.
Carefully apply mascara on the upper and lower eyelashes. If you are a heavy sweater, I highly recommend using a water-resistant mascara. It may also help to brace your arm against a table or counter during this step.
You have now successfully completed applying a face of stage makeup! Congradulations!