Wig Basics

Types of Wigs

There are many types of wigs possible to obtain for productions. It is important to understand the various types available because their styling and application differences alter significantly. Loosely, the wig types can be divided by base type and hair type.

Wig Base Types

Wigs can either be hard- or lace-front. Hard-front wigs have bands of hair sewn to a cap. They are typically less expensive to produce and purchase. Because the hair is sewn to a cap, the wig has a solid ending at the front. That is why it is called a hard-front wig! These wigs can be difficult to style because the hard front is very obviously a wig—usually a cheap-looking wig. If you are using hard-front wigs for productions, it is best to find wigs with bangs to help hide the hard line at the front of the wig.

Conversely, lace-front wigs have hairs that are partially or completely attached to lace. This is done through a process similar to latch-hooking, in which each wig hair is individually tied to the lace. These wigs are typically more expensive, particularly if they are fully made of lace. Regardless, wigs with a lace front tend to have more natural hairlines, making them blend into the skin seamlessly. These wigs look like real hair, and their fronts do not need to be hidden by bangs. However, the lace has the potential to curl, casting shadows on the face if applied incorrectly.

Wig Hair Types

The hair tied or sewn into the wig can be real, synthetic, or a mix. Understanding what type of hair your wig is made of is valuable to proper care and styling. Real hair wigs can be styled with curling irons, flat irons, and other heat products. Synthetic and partially synthetic wigs typically cannot be styled with heat. These synthetic fibers are made with plastic, and flat irons or curling irons will severely melt the fibers and damage the wig. Gentle heat, such as a hair dryer, may be used in conjunction with heatless styling measures. If you are unsure what kind of wig you possess, it is always a good idea to err on the side of caution and avoid using irons and other hot styling methods. If the wig is personal or the company is willing to risk a loss, taking a test strand from the nape of the wig and using an iron on it may help you determine whether the fibers are synthetic or not. Note that following this method may result in fires or chemical inhalation. Thus, it is best to proceed with caution.

Wig Prep

Performers preparing to wear wigs need to understand how to manage their hair throughout the production. For individuals with medium or long hair, a pincurl set or braid is best depending on hair type. For individuals with short hair or no hair, a bandage wrap is the preferred method to ensure that the wig is applied securely. Please note that you will need a wig cap along with the materials listed below. Wig caps are essential to preserve the quality of the wig and ensure a secure fit.

Pincurl Set

The idea behind the pincurl set is that it creates anchors in the hair for the wig pins to attach to. This holds the wig cap and wig in place throughout the performance. Pinculs should be placed along the forehead, around and behind the ears, along the nape of the neck, and at the crown of the head. Note that the pincurls will typically be pinned down with two bobby pins per curl to ensure they are secure. However, if your pincurls are particularly bulky or messy, you may need to secure them with extra bobby pins to ensure they do not add excess volume.

To create a pincurl, begin by taking a strip of hair roughly an inch to a half-inch in size depending on the thickness of your hair. Then, hold two fingers parallel to your hairline. Wrap the hair around those two fingers. When the hair has been securely wrapped, turn your fingers toward your scalp and slide the hair off of your fingers. Press the hair against your head, retaining the curl shape. Take two bobby pins and place them in an X over the curl. This should secure your hair in the pincurl. See the example videos below for further details.

For individuals with kinky hair, pincurls can be replaced with knots or braids along the forehead, behind the ears, around the nape of the neck, and at the crown of the head. These knots or braids will act as anchors for the wig pins when the wig cap and wig are applied. Note that that you may have to pin the knots or braids down with bobby pins to ensure they do not add excess volume.

Bandage Wrap

For performers with short hair or no hair, bandage wraps are a simple and effective way to secure the wig for the duration of the performance. To perform a bandage wrap, you will need self-adhesive bandages and wig pins (also referred to as hair pins). Begin by wrapping the self-adhesive bandages along the hairline, behind the ears, two to three times. Ensure that it is situated along the hairline above the wig's edge. Then, use a comb or pin to push all the hair along the hairline under the bandage. The goal is to get the hair away from the face so it will not be visible under the wig. Then, apply a wig cap, pinning the seam of the wig cap under the front of the bandage wrap. See the video below for detailed instructions.

Alternatively, headbands can be lined with hot glue and barrettes to produce a similar result. However, it is important to note that the goal of the bandage wrap process is to create a snug, secure seam along the hairline to pin the wig to. So, if the headbands available are not snug and/or they slide around easily on the performer's head, then the bandage wrap is the preferred method to use.

Wig Application

There are many ways to apply wigs to ensure they are secure. Sometimes, performers will need more or less wig pins to keep the wig in place; it depends on their level of overall movement, the size, shape, and weight of the wig, and the speed at which the wig will need to be removed. Below, we will teach you a common method of wig application that allows for rapid removal during quick changes. Please not that, regardless of which method you opt to use for wig applications, hair pins should be pushed into the wig or wig cap in the direction opposite from which the wig pin is intended to go. Then, the wig pin should be pushed in an arc as it is pushed farther into the wig or wig cap so that the pin's position is secure.

The Quick Method: Wig Cap

After completing a pincurl set, braid set, or bandage wrap, place the wig cap over the head. It should be just below the hairline.
With a rat tail comb, the tail of a paintbrush, or the back of a bobby/wig pin, push any hair that is not underneath the wig cap, such as baby hairs or hairs along the nape of the neck, under the wig cap.
Pin the wig cap in place at the front of the hairline using two pins in line with the eyebrows. Press the wig pins into the wig cap with the pointed ends pointing away from the face. Then, scoop the wig pins down and toward the back of the head. This should anchor the pins in the bandage wrap, pincurls, or braids.
Pin the wig cap behind the ears following the method above. Press the pins into the wig cap with the pointed ends pointing outward before scooping against the head.
Finally, pin the wig cap along the nape, one pin on each side of the neck. These pins should be inserted into the wig cap parallel to the neck. Then, they should scoop upwards toward the occipital bone.
If you have a pincurl or braid at the crown of the head, pin the wig cap in place there, as well. Like the front hairline, the pin should be inserted pointing toward the face before scooping backwards toward the neck.
If you are placing a microphone in the wig cap, you will stretch the cap around the microphone pack or chord so it is in a pocket parallel to the performer's nose. Pin the folded section of wig cap similarly to the crown of the head or front hairline (scooping from face to neck).
You should now have a secured wig cap!

The Quick Method: Wigs

Now that your hair prep and wig cap are secure, it is time to begin applying the wig. First, check to make sure there are no wig pins or pearl pins stuck in the wig. This is very important for the performer's comfort and safety.
Now, place your hands inside the wig and stand behind the performer. Place the wig over their head gently. It will not be in place yet. That is okay.
Gently grab the front hairline of the wig. stretch it over the actor's forehead.
Next, gently grasp the wig at the nape. Stretch it to cover the performer's wig prep at the nape of their neck.
Now, looking in a mirror or at the performer, grasp the front hairline and sideburns of the wig, twisting it slightly to ensure it is in position. The wig's part may not be in the middle. Thus, you should always evaluate how even the wig is on the performer's head based on the sideburns.
When the wig is aligned successfully, you will begin the pinning process with two pins level with the eyebrows. Press each wig pin through the wig, pointed ends forward. Then, scoop the pin backwards, along the head, until it the pointed ends are facing the back of the skull. This scooping process should catch the bandage wrap, braids, or pincurls beneath the wig cap. The front of the wig should be secure.
Next, pin the wig at the nape of the neck. Press two wig pins on either side of the nape of the neck. Begin by placing the pointed ends of the wig pin parallel with the neck. Then, scoop the pins upward along the hairline. This will create tension between the pins at the front hairline and at the nape, which will help keep the wig secure.
Place pins behind each ear. As with the wig cap, these pins should begin facing downward before scooping against the scalp so the pointed ends face the crown of the head. You can angle these pins slightly so that the pointed ends face the back of the head more; this will aid in rapid removal of the wig.
Finally, pin the wig at the crown of the head. Place a pin with the pointed ends facing fowards, then scoop backwards until the pin's pointed ends face the back of the skull.
If the wig is a lace-front wig, place wig pins against the sideburns, pinning them in the same direction as the pins at the front hairline.
Have the performer gently shake their head. If the wig looks and feels secure, you are done! If the wig does not look or feel secure, additional pins can be added along the front, sides, nape, or at the crown of the head (a pin at the base of the crown of the head pointing the opposite direction of the previously applied pin is recommended to create tension). However, note that the placement and direction of these additional pins may hinder quick removal, so this should be avoided if possible for quick changes.

Wig Removal

Wig removal can sometimes be tricky depending on the number of pins placed in the wig. However, if you have followed steps 1 through 10 above, and you have not added additional pins, then the following steps will provide a quick and simple guide to removal. Because this process only removes the wig and not the wig prep, it is excellent for performers that switch between multiple wigs during productions.

Begin by placing your fingers under the wig at the nape of the neck, palms facing outward.
Gently pull the wig downward, away from the base of the skull. This should loosen the pins at the nape of the neck. As you pull, gently slide your hands farther under the wig.
Once your hands are under the wig at the base of the skull, scoop the wig upward and forward in one fluid motion. This should dislodge the pins from the wig prep and allow the wig to slide off easily.
Once the wig is off the performer, carefully remove the pins from within the wig.
Finally, place the wig back on its wig head or wig block. Using a T-pin or pearl pin, pin the wig onto the wig head or block. From here, you can restyle or store as desired.